Fettucine with Asparagus, Peas and Pancetta

Though I’m not actually cooking all that much these days, I’m still reading my foodie magazines with aplomb. This month’s Bon Appetit cover story is all about Italy, and that can mean only one thing: pasta. My favorite thing in the issue – and about the only thing to inspire me back into the kitchen after a long, slow winter of home renovations and wedding planning and solo meals – is an 8-page primer on pasta technique.

Now, I’m no slouch on pasta. Heck, I like to make my own fresh noodles. But in addition to reminding me that basic dishes like Cacio e Pepe can be transcendent,  it also underlined a secret that I think every pasta fan should know: the magical qualities of pasta cooking water.

Whenever you make pasta, before you drain it out, dunk a measuring cup into the pot and reserve a good 4-10 ounces of starchy, salty liquid. Put a few splashes in with your sauce almost without exception: it makes oily pesto creamy, and keeps creamy alfredo from becoming goopy. It helps thick sauces coat the noodles and adds body and flavor to thinner sauces. Magic, indeed.

It only takes a little pancetta to make a big taste impact.

This technique is front and center in the recipe here today, in which a scant 1/2 cup of cream somehow coats an entire pound of pasta. Spring veggies take center stage, with a supporting cast of garlic, lemon and fresh herbs, with a special guest appearance by our old favorite pancetta. As usual, I can un-vegetarianize just about anything, even vegetables. I added arugula to the original recipe and upped quantities to use a full pound of pasta.

Fettucine with Asparagus, Peas and Pancetta
Adapted from Bon Appetit

This recipe has a lot of ingredients, but never fear: the cooking time is minimal in comparison to the prep time, and the flavor is well worth all the chopping.

1 pound fettucine
4 ounces pancetta or bacon, chopped
1 bunch asparagus (about a pound), trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 cups frozen petite peas
1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced, white and green parts separated
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
Scant 1/2 cup heavy cream
Zest and juice of one lemon
3-4 large handfuls of chopped or baby arugula (about 2 ounces)
1 large handful Italian parsley, chopped, divided
3-4 sprigs of fresh basil, sliced thinly, divided

Cook the fettucine in a large pot of generously salted water. Reserve 1 1/2 cups cooking water and set aside before draining.

In a large skillet, cook the pancetta over medium heat until crisp. Use a slotted spoon to remove the pancetta and transfer to paper towels to drain. There should be pancetta grease coating the pan – win! If it seems like too much, pour some off until you have a thin coating remaining.

Add the asparagus to the pan and sauté 3 minutes. Add the peas, white parts of the green onions, and garlic. Sauté for 2 minutes. While those cook, combine the Parmesan cheese, cream, lemon juice and lemon zest.

Once the garlic is fragrant in the pan with the veggies, add the lemon-cream mixture and pasta to the pan. Use tongs to pull the pasta through the sauce to coat it. Add reserved pasta water as necessary, adding a bit more than you think you will need. Once everything is coated, add the arugula to the pan and toss to disperse. Cover and simmer over low heat until the arugula is wilted, 3-4 minutes. Remove from heat and mix in half of the pancetta, half of the parsley and half of the basil. Now you’re ready to eat! Garnish each serving with additional pancetta crispies, chopped herbs and Parmesan cheese. A good dose of fresh cracked black pepper is also delicious.

Tagged as: arugula, asparagus, bacon, basil, cream, lemon, pancetta, pasta, peas