Richest Chocolate Ice Cream

by Lauren on December 5, 2010

in Desserts & Ice Creams

Richest chocolate ice cream

I promise I have a point, if you’ll indulge me in a little rambling.

I studied dance in college. In one class, the final assignment was to choreograph my “dance not done.” That is, take all of my stylistic preferences, and create a dance that included none of them. This was extremely difficult: how do you create something that includes none of the things you like the most?

The assignment totally changed the way I danced.

After a lot of gnashing of teeth and tears – oh, the tears – I was able to break into a way of moving that was totally foreign to me. Because of the intense effort that required, I was so fully immersed in this new way of moving that it became my dominant style.

This assignment is pretty apropos for my kitchen these days. Let’s call it “Dish Not Done.”

I, as you are well aware if you’ve read more than three posts on this site, do not readily go in for “simple.” I have a penchant for complicated dishes and multi-layered flavors. I like the unexpected. I seek out foods (and friends!) that are bold and inspiring. At times, I do this to my own detriment, missing simple things that are right in front of me with the power to rock my world.

December can be an extra-stressful month. I know that my day job kicks into high gear and on top of that, there are gifts to buy, foods to prepare, get-togethers to attend, and houses to clean and decorate. Seeing family and friends for celebrations is fulfilling, but the preparation can be exhausting. So when the world is going too fast, when there’s too much to do, when it seems like every hour there are new demands on you… that’s when simplicity is more than just a virtue. It’s a downright necessity.

This chocolate ice cream is simple. There’s nothing to it except deep, decadent chocolate flavor. And right now, with all the other things that are going on in my world, I’m so glad I have a quart in my freezer. Right now, simple is peace. Simple is bliss. Simple is a break from a too-fast world.

The recipe is the final entry in Dorie Greenspan’s fantastic new cookbook, Around My French Table.* It’s in the section called “fundamentals,” and it belongs there. This is the chocolate ice cream that needs nothing else. It packs such a solid chocolate punch that you’ll wonder if you’ve ever really had chocolate ice cream before. And as simple things should be, it’s straightforward to make: boil cream and pour it over chocolate to make a ganache. Make a basic custard. Combine. Freeze. Indulge.

May it bring you some simplicity this holiday season, as it has me.

(Of course, if you need to complicate things, your can top this chocolate ice cream with some warm peanut butter caramel and sliced bananas, and you have an out-of-this-world sundae.)

So deep. So rich. So much chocolatier.

Dark Chocolate Ice Cream
Adapted from Around My French Table by Dorie Greenspan

As with most ice cream recipes, you need to chill the custard completely before churning it. Making the custard the day before is the easiest way to do this. Because it’s based on a ganache, this ice cream freezes up hard. Let it set on the counter for 10 or even 20 minutes before scooping, and have no shame in dipping your scoop in hot water.

6 ounces good-quality 72% dark chocolate, chopped into bits**
1 1/2 cups heavy cream, divided
4 egg yolks
1 cup whole milk
1/3 cup sugar
Pinch of salt

Put the chopped chocolate into a large heatproof bowl. Bring 3/4 cup heavy cream to a boil. (I  just stick the measuring cup in the microwave to save another dish.) Pour the boiling cream over the chocolate and let sit a few minutes, then gently whisk to combine, until the ganache is uniform. Set a fine-mesh strainer over the bowl.

From here, we’re looking at the basic ice cream instructions.

Whisk the egg yolks together in a medium bowl and set near the stove.

Bring the remaining 3/4 cup cream, the milk and sugar to a gentle boil in a saucepan over medium heat. Whisking constantly, drizzle about 1/3 of the hot milk mixture into the egg yolks. This will temper the eggs and keep them from scrambling. Whisk in the remaining liquid slowly, add the pinch of salt and return the whole mess to the pan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture begins to thicken. When you can drag your finger over the back of a spoon and your finger leaves a trail, it’s done. Do not overcook. Immediately remove the pan from the heat and pour the custard through the strainer into the ganache. Gently stir the mixture until uniform, then cover and chill 8 hours or overnight.

Churn according to your ice cream maker’s instructions. After churning, pack into an airtight container and freeze for at least two hours before serving.

*That’s an affiliate link. If you click that link and buy the book, I will make bajillions of dollars. I promise to spend my bajillions on fancy cookie dough scoops, expensive chocolates and more cookbooks.

**I like Callebaut blocks, available at the fancy Giant Eagle, and E. Guittard from Mon Aimee Chocolat.

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{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Leah December 5, 2010 at 10:39 pm

This looks absolutely amazing!!!!!!

2 Chef Chuck January 14, 2011 at 6:38 pm

I love ice cream more than anything….this looks like a great recipe!

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